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Samuel Tweed Fabrics for British Textile Week


Synonymous with luxury mohair, Samuel Tweed Fabrics has been designing and manufacturing fabric in the UK for more than 75 years to supply to top fashion houses around the world.

SamuelTweed-VisualBoardSamuel Tweed – visual board by UKFT

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AW21/22: Luxury Mohair and Tweedy Woollen fabrics and accessories

Celebrating the most regal of fibres, the exciting new collection of luxury mohair and wool leno fabrics for AW 20/21 will be launched by Samuel Tweed in September 2020. Mohair is known as the ‘noble’ or ‘diamond’ fibre because of its exclusive qualities: lustre, resilience, and colour reflection. A natural, eco-friendly fibre, mohair is a renewable, natural resource providing a more sustainable alternative to many other fibres.

A piece dyed range of over 40 classic and fashion colours, and an extensive range of 20 tartan checks, are available from stock. Additionally, a range of wool leno fabrics incorporating textured loops, bouclés and slubs, and a brushed lustre wool quality enhance the new collection. Samuel Tweed are also pleased to present a new collection of mohair accessories: scarves, stoles, serapes and throws, available in small quantities for sampling. For both the fabrics and accessories Samuel Tweed can offer a bespoke service for larger quantities. Please contact john@samueltweed.com for details.

John Harrison at Samuel TweedJohn Harrison, Samuel Tweed’s Design/Sales Director said: “During the lockdown we put our efforts into investigating alternative ways to show the AW21/22 collection in the event that we were unable to show at Première Vision. The website has been redesigned and the collection can now be viewed online with the facility to order swatching.

“During the quiet period we were also able to volunteer to assist in the manufacture of PPE with a local company, McNair Shirts, who had secured orders from the local health trust who were struggling to get supplies through the normal channels. The volunteers were made up primarily of textile and fashion people who had found themselves furloughed, redundant or simply with some spare time on their hands”.

“As a company that shows only one collection per year the disruption to the business and the uncertainty going forward leaves us with some concerns. We do, however, enter the new season with our usual enthusiasm and optimism.”

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The Collection:

The Samuel Tweed fabric collection shows mohair at its beautiful best, is presented in four colour and design stories (see below) and is available in weights ranging from 250 to 650 grm.


Beautification:  A subtle palette of pretty pastels, greyed off, muted and understated. Colours: Frost Green, Battleship, Mink, Silver, Verdigris, Marine, Glicine, Ginger, Maize, Caramel, Safari, Natural. Fabrics: Mock Tartan checks in unusual colourings; subtle linear checks and weft stripes; soft and blurry, subdued and subtle.

Expression:  Bright and vibrant Reds, Pinks, Blues and Greens working with Black and White for high contrast. Colours: Flamingo, Miami, Bruised Red, Deep Rose, Crimson, Black, Peacock, Mustard, Lime, Ecru. Fabrics: Contrasting colours in semi plains textures; uneven raised, bouclés and buried stripe effects for depth and detail.

Contemporary: Bold and fearless colours used in audacious and reckless fashion. Colours: Billiard, Mallard, Lagoon, Mauve, Umber, Nutmeg, Cinnabar, Pumpkin, Ruby. Fabrics: Giant tartan and tartan-inspired checks in striking, showy colourways; Madras checks and oversized plaids; diffused and distorted colour gradations.

Urban:  Sombre and dark colours with an air of structured sophistication. Colours: Donkey, Claret, Plum, Aubergine, Dark Navy, Smoke, Forest, Tartan Green, Sparrow. Fabrics: Tonal textural effects, broken & distorted surfaces, subtle colour mixes, strong structured colour & weave effects.

The Collection Summary:

Piece Dyed Plains: 40 fashion and classic colours with a soft -brushed, lustrous finish. Mohair at its beautiful best

Semi Plain: Melange effect on a white base, simple and straightforward, unembellished beauty. Bright flashes of colour on a black ground for the ultimate contrast. Linear detail emerging from the soft mohairy touch.

Subtly hidden pinstripes: subtle stripe, partially hidden and emerging from the fluffy surface.

Bold and Brazen stripes: tonal, colour clashing simple and rudimentary.

Statement Gradations: Sophisticated colour combinations, showcasing the lustre of mohair

Traditional Colour and Weave effects: From Four Pointed Stars to Estate Checks, classic patterns subdued with a brushed finish for the ultimate subtle effect.

Tartans: Classic, traditional; inventively coloured; oversized, contemporary reinterpretations;

Large Plaids: Dramatic in scale, and dramatic in colour.

Oversized Blanket checks: Comforting and familiar and blurry brushed finishes. Cocooning and enveloping.


UKFT’s British Textile Week is a digital showcase of the craftsmanship, imagination and innovation of the UK textile industry.