Key market trends from Paris Fashion Week: March 2024
12/03/2024
UKFT’s international business team was out in Paris with more than 100 UK womenswear and accessories brands at Paris Fashion Week, held from late February to early March 2024. The UK group, supported by the Department for Business and Trade, was showcasing AW24/5 collections to buyers from key global markets such as the US, Japan, China, South Korea, the Middle East, the EU and the UK.
The brands predominantly exhibited at three international tradeshows and 29 multibrand showrooms, with a notable increase in independently showcased companies and a significant presence on the official catwalk programme.
Despite a quieter feel compared to previous editions, with buyers attending in smaller numbers post-Covid, luxury ready-to-wear collections outperformed accessories and jewellery. Buyers exercised caution, although there was sustained interest from Korea and the Middle East for prestigious designer brands.
Price took a backseat to design, shape, textiles, colours and novelty for buyers. Successful brands differentiated themselves with innovative, top-tier products, prioritising quality, luxury fabrics and fit. While sustainability was promoted by some, the overarching focus remained on delivering superior, distinctive style.
Read the full report below…
UKFT Paris Women’s Fashion Week Report
By Paul Alger and Dan Connolly
Paris Women’s Fashion Week is UKFT’s last official international sales event of the calendar. The season started with Pitti Uomo and Paris Men’s and Pre-collections in January, which launched to a fair degree of optimism for a good season, culminating in Paris Women’s Fashion Week from 28 February to approximately 5 March 2024. As with every season, hopes were high for a successful selling period as companies depend on sales at these events to commit to the wholesale production and delivery of orders. This season was no different although there were a number of important developments this season.
The UK group, put together at Paris Fashion Week by UKFT and supported by the Department for Business and Trade, comprised over 100 womenswear and accessories brands. All were travelling to Paris at their own cost to secure business orders from as far away as the USA and Japan, as well as China, Korea and the Middle East, and as close as the European Union, still the UK’s largest export market, and the UK. The companies showed their collections for AW24/5 at three international tradeshows (Première Classe, Tranoiand Woman Paris) as well as at 29 multibrand showrooms across Paris, including Awaykin, Emma Jones Consultancy, Rainbowwave, PaperMacheTiger, Polly King and the Alphabet (incidentally all UK based showrooms). There was a larger than usual number of companies showing independently at individual locations across Paris, such as Jenny Packham, Sabina Savage and IA London. There was also a significant number of UK companies showing on the official catwalk programme this season.
Kate Sheridan
While this was an impressive number of UK brands in Paris during the fashion week, the group was not as large as UKFT would usually see at fashion weeks at other times of the year. One reason for this is that at other fashion weeks there are additional events in Paris such as the Salon International de la Lingerie and Who’s Next in January or Splash!Paris swimwear show usually in June and September. Additionally, a number of brands which showed pre-collection womenswear in January did not return in March (little over a month later) as they had seen their buyers in January. This is a trend we have seen for some time as larger international retail stores place their orders earlier leaving a smaller OTB for the March shows.
As a result, this edition of PFW felt somewhat quieter than in January or in June and September 2023. The buyers had clearly travelled but they were often in Paris in smaller numbers than pre-Covid (again a recurring trend) and they took longer to get around the shows and showrooms than they used to. This was made worse by the heavy rain which hit Paris over the weekend, although most brands and showrooms reported that the bulk of their appointments were confirmed for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday after the tradeshows had closed.
The early date of Ramadan this year starting on 11 March also had a cooling effect for brands targeting the Middle East but should make for a busier show in June and September although some showrooms were considering skipping June and concentrating on September because of concerns about the build-up works and additional accommodation costs in advance of the Paris Olympics and Paralympics (24 July to 11 August and 28 August to 8 September respectively). Similarly, some Chinese buyers did not travel because or proximity to the lunar new year holidays.
Notwithstanding the many challenges facing buyers and brands this season, including wars, imminent and divisive elections and the uncertain state of the economy in countries like Japan, Germany and the UK, there were buyers in Paris for the Fashion Week and there was business to be done. Overall it appeared that luxury ready-to-wear collections outperformed accessories and jewellery, which often perform better later in the year for the holiday season. Buyers were being cautious and many had spent or committed budgets earlier in the season but there was still a lot of interest from buyers from Korea and the Middle East, especially for more expensive or more famous designer brands. Price appears not to be the main deciding factor again this year but design, shape, textiles and colours as well as a desire for something new and different were the main focal points of buyers. Whilst many of the UK brands were keen to promote the ethical and sustainable sides to their collections, buyers in most cases were more focused on high shelf and rack appeal, assuming that collections would be compliant with their standards as a matter of course – another key trend this season.
Rocio
The largest group of companies was at Première Classe (accessories) in time for their 35th anniversary with 15 UK companies showing including Stephen Jones, Mimi Berry and Kate Sheridan being joined by Gushlow and Cole, Pig Chicken & Cow, Emma Hope, Misa Harada, Oats and Rice and many others. The show was relatively busy on the first and last days although it was quieter over the weekends. Other concentrations of UK brands included Awaykin with brands such as StoryMFG and Cawley showing alongside La Fétiche. The Alphabet welcomed back Bernstock Speirs and Yuhan Wang. Black PR featured four brands including Turana Atash and Oriana Capaldi Cuidad.
For some companies, this was not their first show of the season. Ira Iceberg of IA London said: “This market, we presented the UnderGarment Fall ‘24 Made in the UK womenswear collection to international buyers at the White Show in Milan and our private showroom in Paris. Whilst we had conversations with the buyers about the challenges they face in their home markets, nevertheless, the reaction to the new collection design and quality was the most positive yet to date and exceeded our pre-show expectations.”
Mimi Berry showing at Première Classe said: “This was our first show for 12 months, as we skipped the October show for SS24. Orders have yet to be confirmed, but we picked up a few new accounts, and met new buyers from Italy, USA and Korea. 50% of our Asian customers now come to Première Classe.” However, she recognised that the season has been challenging for many: “The Japanese yen is weak and buyers are not confident. Buyers from the UK and Korea were much more very positive and British and European brands have the kudos factor in the USA, which will always sell, albeit with a higher price tag.”
Hamish at Rocio said: “We were thrilled to return to Paris during PFW and present our AW24 collection at the prestigious Première Classe. All round it has been a good show, reconnecting with people and hearing about some exciting opportunities.”
Karl Donoghue at Tranoi commented: “AW24 was our second winter edition presenting the Karl Donoghue collection at Tranoi since the pandemic. On both occasions we have been surprised by the quality of contacts with some orders too. It’s been great for meeting new sales agents and as a result we signed contracts in Germany, USA and Taiwan. We are now in discussions with a Spanish agent too!”
While some of the multibrand showrooms felt that the week had been quieter than usual, most said they still expected to see their regular buyers on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday of the week. Some we clearly worried about the impact on their summer shows whereas others were more optimistic about their ability to capture new OTB from buyers if some of the competition were to stay away. Milan clearly has its eyes on the prize and can see the potential to strengthen its position again next season but Paris remains a firm favourite with many buyers.
Looking to the impact of the Olympics on the June shows, Welcome Edition has confirmed its dates as 21-23 June. Splash!Paris has already confirmed dates of 20-22 June as have Tranoi for men’s and pre-collections. Man/Woman have confirmed dates as 21st to 23rd June and Playtime Paris has confirmed its dates as 29thJune to 1st July. Who’s Next will take place on its usual dateline from 8th to 11th September.
Tranoi announced it would be launching a new Tranoi Tokyo event alongside Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo on 4 – 5 September.
Daniel Connolly of UKFT said: “UKFT is speaking with the major shows and showrooms to support them in Paris in June and September. So far, most of the conversations have been positive although there are worries about the cost of accommodation in the run up to the Olympics in what is already an expensive city.”
UKFT’s Paul Alger said: “Overall, the season has been in line with our expectations. Buyers have certainly travelled but they are being cautious, especially in the UK, parts of the EU and China. Those brands and shows which have performed best this season have stood out with interesting, new products, often at the top of the market rather than playing it safe. Some have promoted the sustainability of their collections but most have concentrated on quality, style, luxury fabrics and fit. When the going gets tough, the tough go shopping!”